A Visit to Sutton Hoo

Handel Coronation Anthems

The Magnificence of the Tsars

An exhibition at the Victoria & Albert Museum in South Kensington - not a place I visit very

often - but this was well worth it. OK this display of the Coronation Robes of the Russian Emperors from the Eighteenth and Nineteenth Century might not say much about the political and economic context of this long and significant period of Russia's history, but the only word that could have been used in the title was 'magnificence'. Exquisite, delicate, gaudy, intricate and totally over the top these tremendous pieces of clothing actually said a lot about the social history of these times. Starting with the Coronation of Peter II in 1727 the complicated nature of clothing was revealed - so many layers, so many buttons, such display - underwear, stockings, breeches, waistcoats, top coats, and the decorations of the chivalric orders all covered in gold and silver thread, interwoven with semi-precious and precious stones all demonstrate the autocracy, wealth and power of the regime. Even in the twentieth century the last Tsar and Tsarina re-created the costumes of previous eras for a celebration ball. Perhaps what is so remarkable is the fact that these items have survived in such excellent condition over such a long period of time, the colours still bright and the decorations intake through times of invasion and revolution. Excellent labelling helped to explain the exhibits too. Rating: 8/10

Babylon Exhibition at the British Museum

A small collection of artifacts from ancient Babylon, but impressive nevertheless. I was pleased that all the pieces were put into context and brought in the nuggets of stories I vaguely

remembered from my childhood - so the Hanging Gardens, Daniel in the lions' den, Belshazzar's Feast, and the Tower of Babel. I was very taken by the ceramics taken from the processional route to Nebuchadnezzar's great city, so bright and fresh, even after close on 3000 years. I was fascinated by the written materials too, the tiny, almost microscopic writing on minute pieces of pottery or cylinders. There were useful maps extensive labelling, and Babylon-related pictures from medieval to modern times. It also made you realise how much we owe to that remarkable period of history - a period of civilisation in the middle east (the site of Babylon is just south of modern day Baghdad) when there was little evidence of a civilised life in the British Isles. The current system of hours divided into 60 minutes stems from Babylon, for this was a place of scientific developments. All in all a terrific exhibition and worth a rating of 8/10

Hadrian - Empire and Conflict

The British Museum really know how to put on an exhibition. This one was appropriately set in the Reading Room - a structure based upon the Pantheon - a building re-constructed by the

subject of this collection of exhibits from the time of the Emperor Hadrian. And he was a truly remarkable man.

Elements of the Cold War

I was listening to a programme on Radio 4 earlier this evening about the role

of the BBC during the cold war. We were told that there was a plan in place to evacuate a core of staff to a secure bunker where they would continue (all 450 of them in 3 shifts of 150 people) to broadcast to the surviving population. Part of the instructions issued to the civil populace was to take a battery powered transistor radio into the space under the stairs where they were to hide once war began. The BBC also supplied the camera link between 10 Downing Street and the nuclear submarine to prove that it was Harold Wilson and the designated naval officer giving the order to launch the nuclear missiles and not some madman Dr Strangelove figure who had burst into the Cabinet Room. All this reminded me that my uncle, a village policeman in Hertfordshire at this time had installed in his office, a bizarre piece of equipment that emitted a continuous bleep. He was under instructions to open an envelope containing instructions should the tone of the bleep change. From time to time announcements came from this loudspeaker to check the equipment was in order. What one person in a tiny village could do should the warning be sounded I dread to think. What were the chances that my uncle wouldn't be out catching criminals or sleeping at the momentous time when the third world war began? Of course it didn't happen......

Tutankhamun Exhibition

Now although it didn't include the famous golden death mask (too delicate to be removed from Cairo) this was a remarkable exhibition - concentrating on the period of Egyptian history around and leading up to the reign of the 'boy king' who ruled the united kingdom for 10 years before his unexpected death at the age of nineteen. Like many of these exhibitions it was the small, if not tiny items rather than the huge mummy cases. What was remarkable after 3000 years was the amazing decoration of pots, model boats, figurines, statuettes and delicate artefacts. The setting is tremendous - at the 02 arena.

Hill Hall

Today at the monthly meeting of Waltham Forest U3A there was a talk about Hill Hall, an Elizabethan mansion situated at Theydon Mount in Essex. I hadn't realised what a gem this building is, currently managed by English Heritage. It has had a very chequered history - built by a little known courtier of Edward VI and Elizabeth I (rising to be her first Secretary of State), and added to over the following two hundred years. It was sold by the family in the early twentieth century, and unfortunately some of the original features were removed at that time. This building exhibits some of the earliest examples of classical architecture in this country. Inside there are some wonderful wall paintings too. Like many large country houses in World War II it was requisitioned by the War Office, and knocked about quite a bit. In the 1950s and 60s it became a women's open prison (a kind of branch of Holloway) and one of the inmates was Christine Keeler. A fire then gutted the building and for twenty years it was left derelict and many of the features were destroyed as a result of weather and neglect. Now, much restoration has taken place and the unique wall paintings preserved. Although the building has been divided into several family homes, now the house can be viewed on supervised pre-arranged tours, every Wednesday in the summer months. Contact English Heritage for further information.

A trip to Smith Square

I had to attend a meeting at the former Transport House in Smith Square and as I drifted back towards the tube station I worked my way through the gardens by the Thames leading towards the gothic pile that is the Houses of Parliament. I was surprised to see the Buxton Memorial (erected to commemorate the part played by one of the campaigners for the abolition of slavery). It is now looking very sprightly in this year marking the two centuries since the passing of the Act. Further along is Rodin's sculpture of the burghers of Calais - a truly remarkable piece, and how wonderful to see it sitting in a public park where can be enjoyed (or ignored) by thousands of tourists. Then under the huge prescence of the grand Victoria Tower above the sovereign's entrance, in a little nook of its own is a memrial to Emmeline Pankhurst. Now I have a connection with Mrs P and her redoubtable daughters, because I was for a while a Superintendent Registrar in Manchester, and the Suffragette Leader was for a number of years a Registrar of Births, Deaths and Marriages for the Chorlton on Medlock sub district. She worked out of her home in Nelson Street (near to the birth place of David Lloyd George). Her daughters were her deputies. So I have issued many certificates from registers bearing their signatures.

Further along my way to the tube station there are two further statues of note: Richard Coeur de Lion and Oliver Cromwell. I can't say the statue of George V on the opposite side of the road is noteworthy though. If I had been feeling better I would have sought out Nelson Mandella. One of those wonderful things about London is finding works of art to look at.

Passendale

Today there were ceremonies to mark the 90th Anniversary of the Battle of Passendale. The Queen went to the biggest of all the British Commonwealth War Graves Commission Cemeteries, Tyne Cot (pictured above). Over twenty years ago I went to this battlefield and the memory of the seemingly endless rows of simple headstones is so moving. Looking at the ages of many of those commemorated - those who died in this terrible of battles is hard to bear. Worse still is the huge wall containing the names of those who died, but whose remains have never been found or identified. When a previous royal visit went to this cemetery 85 years ago he declared it to be one of the most compelling arguments against war - and in favour of peace.